The romance of Pondicherry

A touch of France- in India

There are cities which awe us, cities which inspire us, and cities which charm us with the flavor of  an unhurried, bygone era. Pondicherry is such a city, which I recently happened to visit. It is a former French colony, on the eastern coast of India, near Chennai, where the aura of the colonial era has not yet gone from the atmosphere,

Pondicherry is affectionately known as Pondy, and has been officially known by the alternative name Puducherry since 2006. The recorded history of the city starts from the time when the French acquired it  in 1674 and held control, with occasional interruption from the British and Dutch, until 1954 (de jure in 1956), when it was incorporated into the Indian Union along with the rest of French India.

( Website of Puducherry Tourism: http://tourism.pondicherry.gov.in/ )

Pondicherry is about 135  km from Chennai ,via the scenic East Coast Road. Taxis, Cabs and Buses can be taken from Chennai, and the journey, with verdant greenery and backwaters on the way, is a very enjoyable one.

The crowning piece of the city of the city is undoubtedly the Aurobindo Ashram.  The Ashram ,founded by the Indian revolutionary-turned spiritualist, Rishi Aurobindo, was built in 1926 and attracts people from all over the world. Rishi Aurobindo, whose story of transformation from freedom fighter to spiritual leader is dramatic in itself, expounded the concept of Integral Yoga.  The central theme of his vision was the evolution of human life into a life divine. He believed in a spiritual realisation that not only liberated man but also transformed his nature, enabling a divine life on earth. The Ashram was built with the help of his spiritual collaborator, Mirra alfassa (  “ The Mother” ), a French lady who had come to India at the end of World War I with her husband, but stayed back at the Ashram as the Divine force assisting Rishi Aurobindo .

( Aurobindo Ashram website: http://www.sriaurobindoashram.org/visitors/index.php)

The evening meditation at the Ashram from 7 pm to 7.45 pm transports one into a different world. The atmosphere of silence, with incense sticks burning, and devotees paying obeisance to the Samadhi of Rishi Aurobindo and the Mother, is serene. Throughout the day, one can find devotees sitting and simply praying or meditating, in silence. Regardless of whether one believes in the doctrine of Sree Aurobindo, the group meditation session is not to be missed.

We were also lucky to arrive on the day when Aurobindo’s living quarters were opened to the public ( this is done twice a year). One could observe from the belongings of his room that though undoubtedly he was a proponent of spirituality. He lived in considerable opulence.

The Ashram runs several guesthouses, such as the Park Guest House, Cottage Guest House, New Sweet Home and New Guest House.Of these, the Park Guest House is situated by the sea , offers a serene view of the shoreline , and is highly recommended.

(Details of guest houses: http://www.sriaurobindoashram.org/visitors/guesthouse/ghlist.php )

Some of the other attractions of Pondicherry are the serene seafront, which is packed with people in the mornings and evenings, The Church of Our Lady of Angels, The Cathedral of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception,  the Manakula Vinayagar Temple , the French war meomorial . Auroville (City of Dawn), is another of the major attractions, which   is an "experimental" township, conceptualized by the Mother,  located 8 km north-west of Pondicherry. It is meant to be a universal town where men and women of all countries are able to live in peace and progressive harmony, above all creeds, all politics and all nationalities.

Pondicherry takes you into a different world. If you are looking at a relaxed getaway and soaking yourself in the atmosphere of spirituality, the romance of a bygone era, and the solace of serenity, then Pondicherry, with the waves lapping gently across its seafront and its mixture of quaint colonial era houses and streets named in the French fashion (Rue Dupuy, Rue Roman Rolland for example), is definitely the place to be.  The tagline of Pondicherry Tourism says it all, “Give time a break.”